AC Power Supply For The 1 DER 40
Warning! Do not build this power supply unless you have experience building circuits that connect directly to 115 Volts AC. Remember you can be killed by this voltage!
Important! Before connecting the power supply to the 1 DER 40, remove at least one of the 9-volt batteries. Remove the D cell or put an insulating spacer between one end of it and the battery holder contact. Make sure you install the power supply in a ventilated enclosure because U1 and Q1 get hot during use. U1 will shut down if it gets too hot.
The picture to the left shows the Molex pcb header and the Molex plug on the power supply pigtail.

Molex pcb header is a Mouser: 538-70543-0002
Molex plug shell is a Mouser: 538-50-57-9403
The (3) pins inside the plug shell are Mouser:
538-16-02-0104

The power supply pigtail is short length of 3 conductor #22 stranded cable. The security industry uses 4 conductor #22 stranded cable to wire homes for security systems. You can get a short length of this type cable and pull the unneeded green conductor out of the jacket. That's what I did. I used black for common, white for 1.5 volts and red for 90 volts.
                                Parts List
R1         Resistor, 147K, 1/4 Watt, 1%, Mouser: 271-147K-RC
R2         Resistor, 2K, 1/4 Watt, 1%, Mouser: 271-2K-RC
R3         Resistor, 100K, 1/2 Watt, 5%, Mouser: 293-100K-RC
C1         Capacitor, 1000uF, 16 Volt, Mouser: 140-XRL16V1000-RC
C2         Capacitor, 100uF, 16 Volt, Mouser: 140-XRL16V100-RC
C3         Capacitor, 47uF, 250 Volt, Mouser: 140-XRL250V47-RC
C4         Capacitor, 1uF, 250 Volt, Mouser: 140-XRL250V1.0-RC
D1-D7   Diode, 1N4005
T1         Power Transformer, Mouser: 838-3FD-510
Q1        Transistor, Mouser: 511-TIP50
U1         Voltage Regulator, 1.5 Volt, Mouser: 512-FAN1587AT15
U2         High Voltage Regulator, Mouser: 689-LR8N3-G
F1         Auto-Resetting Fuse, .08 Amp., Mouser: 650-LVR008K
S1         SPST Toggle Switch
Misc.     Heat Sink For U1 & Q1, Mouser: 532-579302B00

To the left is a layout of the solder side of the pc board. The board size is 3" x 3", from black line to black line, not the outside border of the picture. You can right click on the layout and save it. You can then open the file in IrfanView (see link below) or similar photo editing software to enlarge or reduce it to size if needed. One way to make the board is to print out a copy of the layout exactly to size and then with double sided scotch tape, attach it the the copper side of a 3" x 3" piece of pc board. Next, drill the holes. After the holes are drilled, remove the paper and tape. Using the layout to the left as a guide, paint the traces and pads on using oil based enamel paint. Apply the paint with a fine tip painters brush. After it's dry, you can etch the board. When the etching is complete, scrap the paint off with a single edged razor blade and finish getting all the paint off with very fine sandpaper or steel wool.
Download IrfanView free here.
To the left is a layout of the top side of the pc board showing component locations. The pads in the four corners are the locations for the board mounting holes. The cathode (banded end) of D1 through D7 inserts into the pc board holes with the square pads. The side of U1 with the part number on it faces the U1 legend on the pc board. The flat side of U2 faces toward the U2 legend on the pc board. The side of Q1 with the part number on it faces the Q1 legend on the pc board. The pins on T1, the power transformer, are numbered 1 through 8.